The charming fish flags that celebrate the carp that climbed a waterfall to become a dragon used to only hang outside houses with sons from the middle of April until May 5th (now known as Childrens’ Day), but recently, thrillingly huge schools of them have begun to appear in the skies of Tokyo.
When the wind blows, you can really see them swim!
And the great thing about these swarms of fish flags is that you can go see most of them any time of the day or night. Plus, they’re FREE.
Here’s where to see the best of the best…
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TOKYO TOWER
An impressive display of koi nobori flutter outside Tokyo’s favorite orange landmark every year…
and when the wind is really blowing, it looks like they’ll all make it to the top of the waterfall!
Tokyo Tower always makes for great photos…
and—big bonus—these fish flags are lit up at night, and there’s an outdoor pop-up bar set up below. On weekends, Tokyo Tower is lit up in seasonal colors too, making it extra-festive.
There’s also a fine traditional set of koi nobori that flies atop the flagpole out front
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TOKYO MIDTOWN
This amazing display of fish flags swims all along the parkway next to Tokyo Midtown in Roppongi, and it’s not just a feast for the eyes, it’s a true conversation-starter. Each fish was designed by a different artist—it’s hella hard to decide which is your favorite—and they’re new every year.
The fish wend their way from the entrance near the intersection…
past the pedestrian bridge…
and parade through the trees…
…all along the parkway outside 21_21 DesignSite.
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There are also some impressive traditional koi nobori displays featuring jumbo-sized fish flags flying from flagpoles. You can see them in places like…
SENSO-JI TEMPLE
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NISHIARAI-DAISHI TEMPLE
(Psst, if you go there to see the koi nobori, you’re in for a treat, because the temple’s killer giant wisteria is in bloom at the same time.)
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If you happen to be traveling through Hamamatsucho Station, don’t forget to check out the koi nobori being flown by the best-dressed nude statue in Tokyo. (It’s at the far end of the platform on the Shibuya-bound side.)
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If you’re up for journeying a little farther afield for a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see something you really won’t see anywhere else, this:
TATEBAYASHI KOI NOBORI FESTIVAL
From late March until early May, the town of Tatebayashi hangs over 5,000 koi nobori over the river that flows through town, and the nearby Tsutsujigaoka Park is bursting with blooming azaleas, making it well worth a day trip.
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And if you’re looking for cherry blossom goodness that hasn’t been discovered by the masses yet, scroll down to Deep Dive #1 on the Seven Perfect Days in Tokyo page
And here are the other places I take my friends when they come to town
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly e-magazine Japanagram, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
Jonelle Patrick writes about Japan 
Jonelle How are you doing? I wanted to check in if you are planning to come to the reunion on Oct 16-19? Laura
Laura! What a great pleasure to see you here! I’m not sure about the reunion yet. I’m usually in Japan that time of year, but I have a new book coming out, and once they give me a publication date, I’ll know when I have to be in the US for book promo stuff. Will you be there?