Shinjuku is a neighborhood of contrasts, from the neon glow of the Kabukichō red light district on one hand, to the serene treescape and floral wonderland of Shinjuku Gyō-en National Garden on the other. The garden is especially worth a visit in February for the plum blossoms, mid-March through mid-April for every variety of cherry blossom, and for the bonsai chrysanthemum displays in November.
Shinjuku and the adult entertainment district known as Kabukicho are filled with stylish clubs, bars, and all kinds of entertainment that’s definitely not for kids, but it’s also where you can visit one of the most beautiful gardens in Tokyo.
So let’s take a walk in the park! Shinjuku Gyoen is huge, and it’s pretty spectacular year-round, but I especially like it in late February for the plum blossoms
It’s the very best place in Tokyo to see cherry blossoms all season long, from the early blooming ones that open as early as mid-March…
to spectacular specimens of the late-blooming yaezakura in mid-April.
Huge old cherry trees are everywhere—but it gets crowded, and during hanami season you need a reservation with an entry time on the weekends. On weekdays, it’s best to go early in the morning when the gates open at 9:00 or get yourself in with this excellent hack if the time you want to go is sold out.
Shinjuku Gyoen is also the place to see autumn leaves and absolutely amazing bonsai chrysanthemums in November. Each of these is one plant!
Now let’s make our way toward the heart of Tokyo’s adult entertainment distract and visit the magnificent Don Quihote store! it’s now a legendary tourist destination, but DonKi started right here in Shinjuku as an answer to the very real need for everyday goods that Kabukicho’s many hosts, hostesses and other nighttime workers can’t buy during regular business hours because they’re seldom awake. Open 24/7, DonKi is now the go-to for visitors craving crazy Japan-only flavors of KitKats…
Halloween costume ideas they might regret…
and unforgettable souvinirs.
Even if there’s nothing on your shopping list, a walk through its labyrinth of offerings will give you a keen insight into the goods Japanese people can’t live without.
Next, let’s stop by the Hanazono Shrine and pay our respects to the gods who look out for people who work at night and sleep during the day. It’s kept bright and shiny from donations from the many lucrative businesses in Kabuki-cho…
before moving on to see some of those for ourselves! When the sun goes down, Kabuki-cho becomes one of the most fascinating red light districts in the world.
Walk through this gate…
into a riot of neon, thronged with hosts inviting women into their clubs. It’s easy to spot them, with their extravagant hair and elaborate outfits.
Countless host and hostess clubs line the back streets of Kabuki-cho.
If you’re a foreigner, this area is perfectly safe to wander around – even at night – but the businesses and clubs in this district cater to Japanese only. Nobody minds us walking around and looking, but we need to make special arrangements if we want to visit a host or hostess club.
But Kabuki-cho isn’t the only playground in Shinjuku – next door is a warren of small streets called Golden Gai, with alleyways lined with tiny bars that seat 8-10 people each. This is a typical street in Golden Gai. Funky, yes. Fancy, no.
Some of these bars welcome foreigners without an accompanying Japanese person, some don’t. If you want to go into one, pause at the entrance and get a feel for whether you’d be welcome or not. If it feels like you’d be welcome, ask the bartender, “Is it OK to come in?” Even if they don’t speak English, they’ll understand and tell you. There’s often a ¥500 – ¥1000 cover charge at these small bars, so if it’s not posted, ask. Bars in Golden Gai tend to have themes: Goth-Lolita, Cowboy, Elvis, etc. and most have regular patrons warming the small number of barstools, so don’t be offended if they don’t make room for strangers without an introduction.
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And here are the other places I take my friends when they come to town
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly e-magazine Japanagram, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
Jonelle Patrick writes about Japan 