Koshinzuka Street Market Map

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Koshinzuka

🔎 Google map with Togenuki Jizo temple marked

•Get off the train at Sugamo Station.

•There is only one exit. Go up the stairs and out to the big street. Cross at the light right in front of the station.

•Turn right and walk along the street. Cross the tiny street with a stoplight and pass the temple on your left.

•Ahead, you’ll see a street angling off to the left, with an archway over it spelling out “Koshinzuka Street” in Japanese characters.

The street market that attracts vendors of great old-fashioned stuff starts at 10:00 a.m. on every day that ends in a 4: the 4th, 14th and 24th of each month.

The Togenuki Jizo temple is about halfway down Koshinzuka on the right). After passing through the impressive temple gate, go past the large incense urn and on your left you will see a Disneyland-like line snaking up to a shoulder-high stone statue with a kind and peaceful expression. By mid-day, the line spills out of the temple gate and onto the street. It’s believed that by making an offering at the box right in front of the Jizo-san, pouring water over its head with the dipper, and rubbing a white cloth over the part of its body that corresponds with your own affliction, you’ll receive healing. You can buy the white washcloths at the funeral goods shop across from the temple for ¥100.

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10 Replies to “Koshinzuka Street Market Map”

  1. The name of the street is Sugamo Jizo-dori (巣鴨地蔵通り), not Koshinzuka. It is well worth visiting on one of the market days. Watch out for the duck-shaped mailbox outside the Sugamo Post Office (the second kanji in Sugamo is ‘kamo’, or ‘duck’ in English). There are also some interesting shops selling local specialty foods. For those interested in history, the Nakasendo Highway ran right down this street during the Edo Period.

    1. Thank you for that excellent info, Steve! I too love the 4th/14th/24th market days. It’s soooooo retro, and they do have excellent local food specialties. The Japanese friend who first took me there called it the Koshinzuka street market (after the name of the nearest tram stop, I’m now guessing) and I never stopped to read the name of the street on the little shōtengai arch above it! Sugamo Jizo-dori will produce much better map search results, I’m sure, so thank you for the correction. And ha, I never noticed the duck-shaped mailbox outside the post office. Will definitely be keeping an eye out next time I’m there! And how did you discover it was once part of the Nakasendo—that’s a truly interesting piece of information! Thanks for taking the time to add such fine details here.

  2. My family visited Japan in 2019 and stayed in an apartment on Sugamo Jizo-dori for a week. When checking the location on Google Maps I noticed it said Old Nakasendo. Some research confirmed this. Even pre-pandemic there were hardly any other foreign tourists there. It is a great way to see how the locals live (mostly the aged locals who visit the temple and buy the red underwear, hence the nickname Obaasan’s Harajuku). And yes, if you happen to be riding the Sakura Tram, Koshinzuka is the closest stop.

    1. Wow, you really lucked out with that stay! Sugamo is so delightfully “shitamachi”—old-fashioned in quirky retro ways, but also very much a living breathing neighborhood that modernized in equally eccentric ways. It’s so unabashedly Obaasan’s Harajuku, nowhere is more “the real Japan” than Sugamo. So glad you discovered it, and it’s good to know I might be able to suggest to people that they book a place to stay near there, instead of a boring hotel in Shinjuku! Do you mind if I ask how you found your apartment rental?

  3. It was a place on booking.com. To be honest it wasn’t that great – thin futons, could hear neighbor’s child crying and dog barking – but great location, had a washing machine, and kept us warm and dry.

    1. Ha, in other words, you had the ultimate Japanese experience of staying in a regular Japanese apartment! (>_<) When I first moved there, I was, frankly, astounded at how cheap and awful they are, even places that are as expensive as a nice apartment in San Francisco. Don't get me started on the cheesey vinyl wallcoverings and the heater/aircon units that blast a ribbon of equatorial/arctic air in a narrow strip, leaving the opposite temperature extreme to either side…

      1. I had the ‘pleasure’ of living in a Japanese apartment in rural Shizuoka-ken in 1991-93. It had very thin walls and the strong winter winds blew off snow-covered Mt Fuji, across icy Suruga Bay and down the coastline I lived on. (I noticed in 2019 that there are now windfarms there.) It was the coldest I’d ever been inside in my life. Used to go to bed at 7:00 pm on winter weekdays wearing masses of clothes. Good times…

      2. Hey, did you spend some time in the JET mines? Because everyone I know who did has similar trial by fire (or ice, as the case may be!) when it comes to total quasi-involuntary immersion in an authentic and non-Tokyo version of Japan!

  4. Yep, one of the early ones. Overall the best experience of my life and the reason I am interested in Japan to this day.

    1. I envy you having been there when it was still a rare thing! And please take this seat I’ve been saving for you, here at the “Once Bitten, Forever Infected” Club…

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