How to see Japanese festivals and events that most people miss
From today, I’ll be publishing a series of posts about destinations that are especially great to see in each month, with shout-outs to festivals, events, and places to see flower extravaganzas that are just as amazing as The Crowded Pink Season.
Everyone thinks the best time to come to Japan is cherry blossom season, but Japan’s best kept secret is that there’s stuff happening in the rest of the year that’s just as spectacular! Here’s a month-by-month guide to the most eyepopping festivals and events that don’t have the high price tags and crowds that go hand in hand with The Pinkness.
JANUARY
New Year’s Festivals
From Jan 1-3, everyone makes their First Shrine Visit of the Year (often wearing kimonos), so shrines dish up all kinds of music, food, and free entertainment—like taiko drumming, monkey shows, dance troupes and jugglers—as well as dispensing free amazake (a traditional non-alcoholic rice brew that’s suddenly all the rage among probiotic fans).
Best shrines for enjoying the new year’s festivities:
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Winter Illuminations
Many of Tokyo’s fabulous free winter illuminations continue in the month of January, as well as the eye-popping paid illuminations at Tokyo Mega-Illumi, Yomiuriland, and Sagamiko.
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Winter Sumo Tournament
The Tokyo winter sumo tournament runs for 14 days in January. Everyone should see the original clash of the titans at least once!
Search term: january sumo tournament tokyo
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Setagaya Boroichi Flea Market
This is the mother of all Japanese flea markets, taking over many city blocks near Setagaya station every January 15-16. They sell everything from antique masks, dishes and kimonos to vintage vinyl, much of it collectible (and at bargain prices!)
Search term: setagaya boroichi january
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Coming-of-Age Day
On the second Monday of January 20-year-olds put on the most spectacular kimonos they will ever wear, visit their favorite shrine, and officially become adults.
Best shrines for enjoying the Coming-of-Age kimonos:
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Tokyo Auto Salon
This sprawling auto show fills every hall at Makuhari Messe for three days in mid-January, and it might be the wildest auto show you’ve ever seen. From tricked out cars to booth babes, Tokyo Auto Salon spotlights all the mods you’ll need for drift racing and lowriding, not the latest minivans. Even if you’re not in the market for animated taillights or a DJ sound system that will rock the block, if you miss this, you’ll have Regrets.
Search term: tokyo auto salon
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FEBRUARY
Setsubun
On Feb 2-3, everyone celebrates Setsubun to usher in good luck for the new year. People dressed as demons are chased around and pelted with dried soybeans by everyone else, who are busy shouting things like, “Out with the bad luck, in with the good!” It’s also the holiday on which they sell big fat good-luck sushi rolls at every corner conbini.
Best places to celebrate:
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Kimono-Dyeing Festival (Some-no-Komichi)
The cloth dyeing district of Tokyo sponsors a great event called Some-no-komichi at the end of January, where miles of canals are festooned with lengths of gorgeous kimono cloth
Search terms: nakai some-no-komichi
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Funeral for a Pin (Hari kuyō ceremony)
Ever been to a memorial for pins and needles? You should. Sensō-ji temple in Asakusa performs a ceremony every year on Feb 8 to honorably retire pins and needles instead of throwing them away. Those who make a living by stitching bring them to the temple to thank the tools of their trade for a lifetime of faithful service.
Search terms: sensoji hari kuyo
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Plum Blossom Season
Plum blossoms begin wafting their sweet scent and bursting with blooms from late Feb to mid-March. Red ones, white ones, pink ones, weeping ones. Here’s where to see the best plum blossom groves in Tokyo
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MARCH
More Plum Blossoms
Eyepopping displays of plum blossoms continue to delight through mid-March. Here’s where to see the best plum blossom groves in Tokyo
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Girls’ Day (Hina Matsuri)
From mid-February through Mar 3 (the actual holiday), sacred doll sets are displayed in households with daughters. The town of Katsuura (an overnight trip from Tokyo) displays over 40,000 of these dolls all over town in the weeks preceding Girls’ Day. Even if you’re more Goth than girly, these dolls are works of art—often made by National Living Treasures—and they’re worth marveling over.
In Tokyo, you can see these insanely expensive dolls at major department stores like Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya in Ginza and Nihonbashi, as well as at the doll stores in Asakusabashi
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Firewalking Festival at Mt. Takao
Every year on the second Sunday of March this shrine at Mt. Takao invites the public to a grand firewalking ceremony. When the enormous bonfire has dwindled to red hot coals, priests belonging to a strict ascetic order walk across them, then the public is allowed to follow (if they dare!)
Search term: firewalking takao; hiwatari matsuri takao
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Cherry Blossom Season
In Tokyo the cherry blossoms usually start to bloom around 3/24 and reach their peak around 3/30. And if you guess wrong, you still might catch one of the other cherry blossom seasons.
Here are the best places to see cherry blossoms in Tokyo, with maps showing where to find the stands of early-blooming, classic, and late-blooming trees
Here are the best places to see cherry blossoms lit up at night
Here are my favorite SECRET cherry blossom spots: all of the pink, none of the crowd
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APRIL
More Cherry Blossoms
The classic clouds of pale pink somei yoshino sakura end the first week in April, but the late-blooming varieties burst into bloom the second week, hitting their peak mid-April. Here are the best places to see late-blooming cherries in Tokyo
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Free Amateur Sumo Tournament
Japan’s variation on age-group soccer: the annual amateur sumo tournament at the Yasakuni Shrine. It features bouts all day long in mid-April, with little nippers through college age battling it out for heavyweight supremacy.
Search term: sumo tournament Yasukuni
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Azalea Season
You may not think azaleas are a flower extravaganza worth traveling all the way to Japan for, but after you check out the best places to see azaleas in Tokyo, you might change your mind!
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Peony Season
If giant balls of riotous color aren’t your thing, how about luscious peonies as big as your head? I’m here to tell you: the best places to see peonies in Tokyo do not disappoint.
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Tokyo Kimono Show
This is a wonderful event featuring three days of all the latest kimono designs and accessories from all the top designers, plus a special exhibition! Recently it’s been scheduled near the end of April, but check the event page for upcoming dates.
Search terms: tokyo kimono show
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Wisteria Season
Giant wisteria are something you can only see in Japan. For hundreds of years, they’ve been cultivating single plants that are so huge and bloom with such lushness, you won’t believe your eyes. If wandering beneath under a dappled ceiling of purple blooms sounds like heaven to you, here’s where to see the best wisteria in Tokyo.
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MAY
More Wisteria
These magnificent beauties continue to bloom into the first week in May. Here’s where to see the best wisteria in Tokyo.
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Childrens’ Day
Childrens’ Day (used to be called Boys’ Day): Fish flags known as koi nobori traditionally fluttered outside the doors of every family with sons, in the hope their children would be like the carp that climbed the waterfall to become a dragon. Now they’re strung in delightfully colorful schools all over Japan in the weeks leading up to May 5th (the actual holiday). Here are the best places to see koi nobori in Tokyo.
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Spring Sumo Tournament
The Tokyo spring sumo tournament runs for 14 days in May. Everyone should see it at least once!
Search term: may sumo tournament tokyo
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Sanja Matsuri
This is one of the largest and most boisterous Shinto festivals in Tokyo! Glittering portable shrines are carried through the streets surrounding Sensō-ji temple for three days on the third weekend in May, some carried by barely-clad men with magnificent tattoos. You’ll be sorry if you don’t join the good citizens of Asakusa to make merry, eat and drink long into the night!
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Design Festa
The best artist/maker market you’ll ever be dazzled by occupies the Big Sight convention center in Odaiba twice a year, for three days in mid-May and another three days in mid-November. I guarantee you won’t leave Design Festa without gifts for everyone on your list and a set of handpainted zombie nesting dolls for yourself.
Search terms: design festa may
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Iris Season
If you love Japanese iris as much as I do, you won’t want to miss the rippling waves of fancy purple varieties at the best iris gardens in Tokyo from the end of May to early June. Some of these venerable gardens have been blooming since they were captured in woodblock prints when the samurai still ruled Japan!
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JUNE
More Irises
The first week of June is still a fantastic time to gaze at purple seas of iris, including those in a secret garden that’s only open to the public during iris season. Here are the the best iris gardens in Tokyo.
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Mt. Takao Beer Garden
Not only is a day trip escape to Mt. Takao a pleasant only-in-Japan thing to do in the steamy months of June – August, there’s an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink beer garden at the summit in the summertime. (And Mt. Takao isn’t the only beer garden in town – there are a ton of excellent options right in Tokyo on rooftops and parks if you do a search!)
Search term: takao beer garden; tokyo summer beer garden
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Hydrangea Season
I never thought much about hydrangeas until I came to Japan, where there are giant gardens bursting with thrillingly colored blooms. June is when to see the best hydrangea gardens in Tokyo.
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Roses at Kyu Furukawa Garden
Kyu-Furukawa is a fascinating mix of before and after Japan opened to the West in 1868, with a jewel of a Japanese garden seamlessly integrated with a European-style rose garden and Meiji Era mansion.
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JULY
Edogawa Goldfish Festival
A grand goldfish festival takes place in Edogawa every July, and it’s an amazing opportunity to experience Japan’s iconic meme for dashed hopes for yourself, as well as marvel at exotic goldfish varieties and pick up some choice swag.
Search term: Edogawa goldfish festival, kingyo matsuri Edogawa
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Floating Lantern Festivals
This toro nagashi floating lantern festival takes place on Shinobazu Pond in Ueno every July, but it’s not the only floating lantern festival in town! Do a search for one that’s happening while you’re in Tokyo.
Search terms: toro nagashi, floating lantern festival
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Mitama Matsuri
The Mitama Matsuri festival at the Yasukuni Shrine is one of the grandest festivals of summer. Traditional dancing, music, and lots of festival food is a great way to spend a warm summer evening
Search term: mitama matsuri yasukuni
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Fireworks Festivals
Sitting by the riverside and watching astounding fireworks displays on a warm evening is one of the delights of Japanese summer. If you play your cards right, you can even watch them from a ferry!
Search term: Tokyo fireworks July
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Lotus Season
Mid-July through mid-August is when these gorgeous flowers sacred to Buddhism lift their heads above a sea of green. The best time of day to see them is early in the morning, because lotus flowers bloom at first light, then close up in the heat of the day. Here are the best places to see lotus flowers, including rare varieties found nowhere else and a garden grown from 2,000-year-old seeds.
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Lotus Festival at Sankei-en Garden
Who knew there were so many things you can do with a lotus leaf? In addition to ogling the vast pond of gorgeous lotus flowers, from mid-July to early August, Sankei-en volunteers offer any number of fun activities that demonstrate the remarkable structure of this ancient and sacred plant. Early opening hours assure you can see lots and lots of blooms before the flowers close up again under the midday sun.
Search terms: sankeien lotus festival
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AUGUST
More Lotus Flowers
Lotus season continues, and here are the best places to see lotus flowers, including rare varieties found nowhere else and a garden grown from 2,000-year-old seeds.
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Lotus Festival at Sankei-en Garden Continues
This must-see festival for lotus-lovers continues through early August. You’ll be delighted by the Sankei-en volunteers, who offer so many fun activities that demonstrate the remarkable structure of this ancient and sacred plant. Early opening hours let you see lots and lots of blooms before the flowers close up again under the midday sun.
Search terms: Sankeien lotus festival july
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More Fireworks
Fireworks festivals continue all around Tokyo in the month of August, so do a search and find one that fits your travel schedule!
Search term: Tokyo fireworks August
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Goldfish Festivals at Tokyo Aquariums
Contemplating goldfish is the age-old way Japanese way to endure the summer heat, and Tokyo’s aquariums step up to the task with a bunch of cool exhibitions in the summertime.
Search terms: Sumidagawa Aquarium; Shinagawa Aqua Park, Art Aquarium Museum
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Tokyo Toy Show
The Tokyo Toy Show never fails to dish up some highly amusing playthings. I discovered THIS unlikely winner, the last time I went. The show is out at the Tokyo Big Site convention center in Odaiba, so you can do plenty of other fun stuff while you’re out there.
Search term: Tokyo Toy Show
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SEPTEMBER
The Forest of Red Solstice Lilies (Higanbana)
These native red amaryllis known as higanbana bloom in mindboggling profusion a forest near Tokyo, for just a few days right around the autumn solstice. But they’re also in bloom at various gardens around town. Here’s where to see the best solstice lilies in Tokyo.
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Autumn Sumo Tournament
The Tokyo autumn sumo tournament runs for 14 days in September. Everyone should see this spectacle at least once!
Search term: sept sumo tournament tokyo
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Bush Clover Tunnels
Bush clover is one of the iconic seven flowers of autumn, but it’s not very spectacular unless it’s trained into a magical tunnel like the one at the Mukojima Hyakka-en botanical garden. There’s also a lovely long one at Tonogayato Park.
Search terms: hagi bush clover tunnel
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Cosmos Fields
There are several cosmos fields brightening Tokyo gardens and parks as far as the eye can see from late September to early October. These flowers aren’t spectacular all by themselves, but vast fields of yellow and orange or pink and purple will take your breath away. Here are the best places to see best places to see cosmos fields in Tokyo.
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OCTOBER
More Cosmos Fields
These come in several gorgeous colors, and never fail to impress. Here are the best places to see fields of cosmos in Tokyo.
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Ghost Cat Parade (Bakeneko Matsuri)
The costumed participants in the free Ghost Cat Parade (Bakeneko Matsuri) never fail to delight and entertain. Truly an only-in-Japan experience
Search terms: Bakeneko matsuri
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Festival of 10,000 Lanterns (Oeshiki Ikegami)
This nighttime parade of golden pagoda lanterns festooned with streamers of white flowers is well worth braving the crowds. On the second weekend in mid-October, the revelers parade though the Ikegami neighborhood to the magnificnet Ikegami Honman-ji temple, which is lit up at night for the occasion
Search term: Oeshiki Ikegami
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Tokyo Cake Show
This three-day event took place around the middle of October when I went to see it, and it included not only the most spectacular wedding cakes I’ve ever seen, there were also amazing sugar sculptures and strange things carved out of chocolate
Search terms: japan cake show tokyo
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Horseback Archery Competitions (Yabusame)
Skilled horseback archers dress in ceremonial samurai garb to compete in turf-pounding demonstrations of bow and arrow prowess. These take place at autumn festivals hosted by a few major shrines. The best places to see them are Asakusa, Tsurugaoka Hachiman shrine in Kamakura, and at the Meiji Shrine fall festival.
Search terms: yabusame tokyo; horseback archery tokyo
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Halloween in Tokyo
The massive cosplay street parties of yore have been banned by every neighborhood now, but Tokyo is still an amazing (and amusing!) place to get costume inspo for your next dress-up occasion. Find myriad choices for the new Halloween you at the Don Quihote and Hands stores.
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NOVEMBER
White Heron Dance
On the first weekend of November, catch the sacred White Heron dance in front of Senso-ji temple in Asakusa.
Search terms: white heron dance sensoji
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Chrysanthemum Competitions
Living chrysanthemums bonsaied into fantastic figures, Elvis poufs, and enormous globes of flowers that you won’t believe are just one plant are just a few of the camera-grabbing sights at the various chrysanthemum competitions around Tokyo in November! Here are the best places to see chrysanthemum competitions in Tokyo
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Design Festa
The best artist/maker market you’ll ever be dazzled by occupies the Big Sight convention center in Odaiba twice a year, for three days in mid-May and another three days in mid-November. I guarantee you won’t leave Design Festa without gifts for everyone on your list and a predatory handbag for yourself.
Search terms: design festa november
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7-5-3 Coming-of-Age Ceremony (Shichi-go-san)
Three-year-old girls, five-year-old boys, and seven-year-old-girls dress up in traditional finery and are blessed at shrines and temples on November 15th, but you can see them with their families at many shrines throughout the month of November.
Search terms: shichi-go-san
Best places to see children dressed up in adorable kimonos:
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Autumn Leaf Season Begins
Autumn leaves come into their glory during the month of November, with red Japanese maples and spires of golden gingko trees. Here’s where to see the best autumn leaves in Tokyo...
and here’s where to see the best autumn leaves lit up at night.
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Winter Illuminations
All of Tokyo starts to sparkle in mid-November with FREE holiday light shows. Here are the best winter illuminations in Tokyo.
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DECEMBER
Autumn Leaf Season Still in Full Swing
Autumn leaves come into their glory during the month of November, with red Japanese maples and spires of golden gingko trees. Here’s where to see the best autumn leaves in Tokyo and the best autumn leaves lit up at night.
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Winter Illuminations Continue
Tokyo continues to light up the night with holiday illuminations that continue at least until Dec 25, and often into the new year. Here’s where to see the best winter illuminations in Tokyo.
Yoru-no-yo lights up Yokohama’s waterfront with new and fabulous artworks every year for the month of December. This is always worth seeing—if you’re in Tokyo, don’t miss it!
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Setagaya Boroichi Flea Market
From wooden molds to antique kimonos, the Setagaya Boroichi flea market’s got you covered, and at unbelievably reasonable prices. You’ll definitely find the perfect gift for everyone on your list! This grand sale that covers many square blocks happens twice a year, on December 15-16 and January 25-26.
Search terms: Setagaya Boroichi
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Xmas in Japan
Nothing is weirder than Xmas in Japan. From Sexy Santa to Christmas hats from hell to various acts of Santa costume blasphemy, the month of December is an excellent time to experience the holiday like nowhere else in the world.
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Midnight Fox Parade
One of the most charming (and photogenic) new year’s eve traditions in Tokyo happens in the Oji neighborhood—the fox parade! Participants and spectators alike dress up like foxes before the parade begins at midnight to usher in the new year.
Search terms: oji fox parade
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New Year’s Eve
Celebrating New Year’s in Japan is a three-day affair, and it starts on New Year’s Eve with a traditional temple visit. It’s the one time of year you can be sure to see the great temple bells being rung with those big suspended logs! The resident priests do it 108 times in the hours before midnight to banish the 108 Buddhist sins.
Search terms: Japanese new year Tokyo
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And I wouldn’t be doing my job if I didn’t warn you off a couple of periods you might not know about that are the Japanese pain-in-the-tookus equivalent of traveling during Thanksgiving and Xmas in the US.
When NOT to come to Japan
New Year’s Holiday
Jan 1-3 is not the greatest time to be in Japan unless you’re here to see family and friends, because nearly everything is closed for three days. Not just small stores and restaurants—museums, gardens, bars, and even supermarkets close for at least part of the three day holiday. The only place you can reliably get food is at hotels, convenience stores, and at shrine festival street food stands (at which they dish up the traditional Japanese equivalent of McDonald’s—fun at first, but gets old fast).
“Golden Week”
There is a string of public holidays that falls around the first week in May, and (insane as it sounds) everyone—I mean EVERYONE—in Japan travels that week. This means: standing room only on long bullet train rides (if you can get tickets at all), sky-high prices/fully booked hotels, museums and gardens with lines a mile long to get in, and lots of small businesses/restaurants hanging out their “closed for vacation” signs. If you value your PTO, do a search to check the exact Golden Week dates for this year and avoid, avoid, avoid!
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And here are the other places I take my friends when they come to town
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly e-magazine Japanagram, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
Jonelle Patrick writes about Japan 
Great ides for newsletter Thank you. Cait