Nikko

Nikko not only hosts the spectacular World Heritage shrine where you can see the original see-no-evil-hear-no-evil-speak-no-evil monkeys, it’s home to two only-in-Japan theme parks. One invites you to wander around an authentically recreated samurai village dressed as the period character of your choice, watch courtesan parades and solve a ninja maze. The other is an astonishing park filled with models of famous world monuments, all landscaped with living bonsai trees grown perfectly to scale. And it’s all just an easy weekend trip from Tokyo!

There’s no greater “power spot” in all of Japan than the Nikko Toshougu Shrine, which combines the good luck abode of a dragon, the tomb of the mightiest shōgun of all time, and the World Heritage Site seal of approval.

This shrine delivers pristine gold-and-red goodness at the highest level.

It boasts a gorgeous five-story pagoda, with mossy lanterns galore

You can see the original hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil, see-no-evil monkeys

and hunt down a few lovely easter eggs, like the furry elephants with claws (carved by someone who obviously had never seen a real elephant)…

…and the famously elusive sleeping cat. 

It’s also where the mightiest shōgun of all—Ieyasu Tokagawa—is buried. His solemn tomb is as grand and awe-inspiring as you might expect.

If I were you, I’d set aside a day to immerse yourself in samurai life at Edomura, an entire town built to look like it would have during the three hundred years when the samurai ruled Japan. 

Staff members dress in period clothing

And you can too! There’s a place right near the entrance where you can rent the costume of your choice and walk around in it for the day to make your visit even more immersive (and Instagrammable)! If you’ve ever longed to be a samurai lord, a ninja assassin, or the world’s most desirable geisha, now’s your chance.

They have tons of costumes to choose from, but here’s a small sample of roles for men, women and children:

Costumed or not, every building houses something interesting, and many showcase how traditional Japanese crafts were made and used, with staff members giving demonstrations.

Footwear of yore
Woodblock printing

In addition to the jail and other rarely-documented Edo town life spots, there’s a life-sized ninja maze you can easily get lost in (it’s harder than you might think!) and a highly entertaining “ninja trick house” where the angles are so deceiving…

it’s genuinely hard to walk through it while keeping your balance

There are also two theaters, one for live performances, one showing a constant stream of shorts about geisha, oiran, ninjas and Edo Period life. All the movies and stage shows are included in the price of admission…

This one about the courtesans known as oiran features the kind of entertainments they actually performed.

and it’s the one place in all of Japan where you can watch a real oiran parade, like the ones in The Samurai’s Octopus!

Don’t miss the spectacle of Edo’s first-rank oiran parade!

Nikko is also home to the fabulous theme park that’s entirely landscaped in bonsai trees, where you can visit over a hundred miniature world monuments in a day.

The models at this place are so amazing that if you do an online image search with a photo of one, it’ll deliver pictures of the real landmark.

Is it real or is it a model? (Miyajima really does look like this, but this is the model!)

Endless entertainment is provided by the 1:25 scale figures populating the famous scenes (easter eggs galore, if you look closely!)

The “rooster on a cat on a dog on a donkey” entertainment isn’t the only easter egg in this scene—look more carefully at the tourists and guess which American holiday is the model-maker’s favorite

And the quirky moments in time the model-makers chose to illustrate

King Charles may be getting crowned at the Westminster Abbey in London, but at the one in Nikko, he’s forever getting hitched

But the most amazing fact is that the landscaping around the 1:25 scale models is alive, and perfectly trained to match the buildings. How they cultivate so many bonsai on such a grand scale is one of the great mysteries of Japan.

If you didn’t know better, you’d think this photo was shot from a drone whizzing over the natural mix of trees and shrubs growing wild in the countryside.

(More amusing easter eggs and photos of this incredible place are here.)

All of this entertainment is within a short train ride from central Nikko, which is a charming town filled with restaurants, inns and hotels at every price range, framed by a bridge that’s a destination photo in itself.

Transport yourself to 1790s Japan, and meet the samurai lord who would do anything to hide his crime, the poor man who would do anything to be rich, and the queen of the pleasure quarter would do anything to escape her gilded cage…

“…a complete immersion in a world of beauty, drama, secrets, and betrayals.”
—Kim Hays, author of the Polizei Bern series

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