Everyone who comes to Japan for cherry blossom season flocks to the top spots in Tokyo for good reason—they’re spectacular. Which means they’re also spectacularly crowded. But guess what? Locals know that just an hour away in Kamakura, you can see jaw-dropping pinkness and gorgeous blooming views at the most entertaining shrines and temples inContinueContinue reading “Bigtime cherry blossoms, small town crowds”
Author Archives: Jonelle Patrick
How to get into Shinjuku Gyoen during cherry blossom season
If you’re in Tokyo to see the cherry blossoms, there’s no place bigger and better and pinker than Shinjuku Gyōen National Garden. The problem is, everybody and their brother knows that, so now you have to book a time slot in advance to get in. If you’re a buttoned-up planner who is adept at navigatingContinueContinue reading “How to get into Shinjuku Gyoen during cherry blossom season”
Tips & tricks for maximum fun at the new TeamLab Borderless
Hi, it’s me, Jonelle. The TeamLab Borderless Digital Museum is the hottest ticket in Tokyo right now, but it’s also the great grandaddy of FOMO. There are no maps, and it’s designed to get you turned around so you “discover” instead of beelining to the thing you’re dying to see. The new Azabudai Hills siteContinueContinue reading “Tips & tricks for maximum fun at the new TeamLab Borderless”
Seven Perfect Days in Tokyo: Destination combos that work together
Here are seven ways to hit all your must-see Tokyo attractions, then discover the other incredible things to see nearby! • Quick “7 Perfect Days” navigation buttons, if you already know where you’re going • Perfect Day #1Art Aquarium, only-in-Japan theater, shopping gold & the world’s best coffee Start at Art Aquarium, then roam to…TheContinueContinue reading “Seven Perfect Days in Tokyo: Destination combos that work together”
How to pick a hotel in Tokyo and book it yourself online
I’m not going to recommend specific hotels because your budget and travel plans are unique to you, but here’s how you should pick a place to stay in Tokyo. How to check out the options and book your hotel by yourself online The best way to see all the options is to do a GoogleContinueContinue reading “How to pick a hotel in Tokyo and book it yourself online”
Where do I get a visitor transit card at Haneda Airport?
Regular PASMO, Suica and ICOCA transit cards are available again at all train station ticket machines, but if you buy a temporary visitor transit card when you arrive at the airport, it won’t cost you the ¥500 non-refundable deposit and can be reloaded for 28 days from the date of purchase. OR If you haveContinueContinue reading “Where do I get a visitor transit card at Haneda Airport?”
How to put a Japanese transit card on your phone
This is the easiest and most reliable way to buy a transit card. You can do it from home before you leave and use a credit card,* even if it’s not issued by a Japanese bank. *Important note: For various arcane reasons, VISA credit/debit cards issued by foreign banks are not accepted. MasterCard and AmExContinueContinue reading “How to put a Japanese transit card on your phone”
How to get and use a visitor transit card
If you’re flying into Osaka/Kyoto or points west, you can buy an ICOCA reloadable transit card at any train station and use it anywhere in Japan. But as of August 2023, you can no longer buy Suica or PASMO transit cards in Eastern Japan (Tokyo region and east), so you have to put one onContinueContinue reading “How to get and use a visitor transit card”
How to buy & use a train card
You can go anywhere in Tokyo with only a short walk at either end. Subways and trains are used by everyone from schoolchildren to corporate bosses because they’re by far the best way to get around Tokyo. Taking a taxi is expensive and slow because Tokyo is huge and the streets are usually choked with traffic.ContinueContinue reading “How to buy & use a train card”
The best places to see fluttering fish flags in Tokyo
🎏 Unexpectedly stumbling across a whole bunch of koi nobori fluttering in the wind is one of Japan’s great delights, but if you’d rather not be saying “Hey, wait, why didn’t I know about those?” here’s where to see the best ones in Tokyo! These are the ones at Tokyo Tower Children’s Day is onContinueContinue reading “The best places to see fluttering fish flags in Tokyo”
What NOT to do in Tokyo: The top ten overrated experiences (and what to do instead)
I like to keep things positive around here, but I just scanned the umpteenth itinerary forwarded to me by a coming-to-Japan friend, and I can’t believe that trip planners keep sending people to do this stuff! If yours tries to sell you a plan with these destinations on it,* send them back to the drawingContinueContinue reading “What NOT to do in Tokyo: The top ten overrated experiences (and what to do instead)”
Canals festooned with miles of gorgeous kimono fabric
Some-No-Komichi is a celebration held every February in Nakai, the Tokyo neighborhood that’s famous for kimono dyeing. Examples of the makers’ finest wares are strung along miles of the canal that meanders through the area, and shops are in open house mode for your strolling (and shopping!) pleasure. Lengths of kimono fabric flutter in theContinueContinue reading “Canals festooned with miles of gorgeous kimono fabric”
Setagaya Boroichi, the most legendary flea market in Tokyo
The Setagaya Boroichi is the grand old lady of Tokyo flea markets. It’s so ancient and so revered, in fact, it holds Intangible Cultural Treasure status! On December 15-16 and again on January 15-16, it fills every street and alleyway for BLOCKS In classic style, there is loads of crap studded liberally with actual finds. From lacquerContinueContinue reading “Setagaya Boroichi, the most legendary flea market in Tokyo”
How to do the right thing at shrines and temples in Japan
Shrines and temples aren’t just for snapping nice pix – there’s serious specialized goodness to be gotten from throwing a coin to the proper powers-that-be! Here’s how to take advantage of the local supernatural beings’ odd specialties, and do it right: First: Wash your hands It’s polite to ritually purify yourself at the spring nearContinueContinue reading “How to do the right thing at shrines and temples in Japan”
Shrine or temple? The Quickie Guide
You’re craning your neck to see some gorgeous gold-leafed carving, and suddenly you’re overcome with traveler joy. “Isn’t this the most gorgeous…?” Uh oh. Shrine or temple? Because you know that temples are Buddhist and shrines are Shinto (and you don’t want to be that tourist) but which is which? Shrines and temples can both beContinueContinue reading “Shrine or temple? The Quickie Guide”
Tokyo’s best-kept shopping secrets: The Shimojima gift, paper & packaging emporium
I used to drag everyone who came to visit me to Ito-ya, the legendary 9-floor stationery shop in Ginza. But when they renovated and got rid of 90% of their merchandise, turning it into an over-designed boutique selling expensive stuff nobody needs, I had to fill the aching hole in my heart with a newContinueContinue reading “Tokyo’s best-kept shopping secrets: The Shimojima gift, paper & packaging emporium”
Hacking Leaf Season: Beat the crowds & duck those peak prices
Thinking about taking an autumn trip to Japan? Dreaming of strolling through divine gardens bursting with red maples, and serene temples robed in fall leaves? I’m with you: it’s totally my favorite time to be here – not beastly hot nor shiveringly cold, with plenty of upworthy photo ops everywhere – but you may be dismayedContinueContinue reading “Hacking Leaf Season: Beat the crowds & duck those peak prices”
Festivals + Events: What’s happening while you’re in Tokyo?
These are the festivals and events I would take you to see, if you were in town!
Be sure to pack these because you can’t get them in Japan
Japan is stuffed with (mostly) more and better goods than anywhere in the world, but there are a couple of things you should definitely bring with you, if you think you’ll need them: Deodorant/antiperspirant They do sell something they call “deodorant” but it’s basically perfume. Antiperspirants aren’t sanctioned by the Japanese version of the FDA,ContinueContinue reading “Be sure to pack these because you can’t get them in Japan”
How to find public restrooms in Tokyo
The Holy Grail Finding bathrooms in Tokyo is a lot easier than finding them in America, that’s for sure! Here are three surefire places to find them, wherever the urge makes itself known. Train Stations Scan the overhead signs for the bathroom icons (in internationally recognizable pink/red and blue) and follow them to the nice,ContinueContinue reading “How to find public restrooms in Tokyo”
Curated Walking Tour: Yanaka, the best traditional neighborhood in Tokyo
Yanaka is one of the quirkiest (and undiscovered) Old Tokyo neighborhoods in town. Here, new generations of artisans from families that have plied their trades for centuries are finding fun and inventive ways to make everything old new again. Sometimes, with cats. Let’s go for a walk and I’ll show you all my favorite spots!ContinueContinue reading “Curated Walking Tour: Yanaka, the best traditional neighborhood in Tokyo”
Should I hire a guide in Japan?
People always ask me if they should get a guide in Japan or not, and it’s the one question that I can’t really answer for you! Here’s a quiz to help you figure out whether a Japanese-speaking guide will make your time in Japan a lot more enjoyable, or not. Do you like to seeContinueContinue reading “Should I hire a guide in Japan?”
How to do all the fun Tokyo stuff if you can’t speak Japanese
An interview with Mac of Maction Planet bespoke tours I know. The whole reason you’re on The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had is to figure out how to have fun in Tokyo without someone showing you around. And don’t get me wrong, you absolutely can! (If you haven’t explored the site yet, have a lookContinueContinue reading “How to do all the fun Tokyo stuff if you can’t speak Japanese”
Should I see a Kabuki performance?
I know. You think you’re not interested in this fusty old super-Japanese form of entertainment. But you’d be wrong. Here’s why. #1 The actors who play the women’s roles do it so well, you forget they’re men Seriously. If you aren’t looking for evidence that they’re not actually female, nothing in their walk, body language,ContinueContinue reading “Should I see a Kabuki performance?”
Kabuki: How to get tickets and see a performance
If you’re not convinced you need to see this only-in-Japan entertainment while you’re here, get thee over to Should I see a Kabuki performance? I think you’ll be back. There are three options for getting your kabuki fix: 1: Visit the Kabuki-za Gallery and see three minutes of the current live show, plus a 30-minute audioContinueContinue reading “Kabuki: How to get tickets and see a performance”
Gachapon hunt! Where to find the best capsule toy vending machines in Tokyo
If you aren’t dashing from the plane to feed all your hundred yen coins into gachapon vending machines, you should be! And if you have to ask why… It’s because capsule toys are adorable… Satirical Mythological Classical Inexplicable Questionable Inevitable Instagrammable …and oh so collectible! You can only get them in Japan, and every series isContinueContinue reading “Gachapon hunt! Where to find the best capsule toy vending machines in Tokyo”
How to travel in Japan with food allergies and other special diet needs
How do you survive in a country where information about food ingredients is all in Japanese? The first time I lived in Japan, I had a friend who was deathly allergic—and I mean Epi-pen allergic—to shellfish. She was so allergic, she’d get a reaction if she even ate food that had been cut with theContinueContinue reading “How to travel in Japan with food allergies and other special diet needs”
Navigating: How to get where you’re going in Japan
If you have a smartphone, the easiest and fastest way to plot your routes anywhere in Japan is with a train finder app You can get the train app before you go, or download it once you arrive. It’s less than $5.00, and worth every yen. I use one called Navitime Japan Travel, and itContinueContinue reading “Navigating: How to get where you’re going in Japan”
How to buy tickets for the bullet train if you don’t speak Japanese
Here’s how I buy bullet train tickets: There are lots of sites that will tell you how to buy a long-distance train ticket in detail (this is a good one) but here’s how I do it: • Decide on your dates and times of arrival and departure • Figure out what trains you’ll need toContinueContinue reading “How to buy tickets for the bullet train if you don’t speak Japanese”
How to take a taxi in Tokyo if you don’t speak Japanese
Some drivers speak English, but don’t count on it. Here’s how to be sure you get where you’re going Your best bet is to hand the driver a written copy of the address you’re going to (or show them on your phone). It’s better if it’s written in Japanese, but it can be written withContinueContinue reading “How to take a taxi in Tokyo if you don’t speak Japanese”
How to get into Tokyo from Narita airport
Narita airport must get the worldwide prize for being farthest from the city it serves. Seriously, what the heckin’ heck were they thinking? But sadly, there’s no time to move it before you come. Depending on how much luggage you have, where you’re staying, and how much you want to spend, here are the optionsContinueContinue reading “How to get into Tokyo from Narita airport”
How & where to get cash in Japan
Nothing is more mortifying than hearing that the restaurant where you just ate the best lunch ever doesn’t take credit cards… Credit card use is spreading, but outside the big cities (and also in more traditional Tokyo neighborhoods), many small stores and restaurants are still cash only, so it’s a good idea to carry enoughContinueContinue reading “How & where to get cash in Japan”
How to buy & use a train card
You can go anywhere in Tokyo with only a short walk at either end. Subways and trains are used by everyone from schoolchildren to corporate bosses because they’re by far the best way to get around Tokyo. Taking a taxi is expensive and slow because Tokyo is huge and the streets are usually choked with traffic.ContinueContinue reading “How to buy & use a train card”
How big is Tokyo?
It’s hard to plan a trip to somewhere before you know how big it is and how hard it will be to get around. Scroll down to see Tokyo’s main subway line superimposed on your city’s map! Anyone who wants to be somewhere on time in Tokyo takes the train. They’re not just frequent andContinueContinue reading “How big is Tokyo?”
Fun with kids in Tokyo
Tokyo is one of the few places on the planet where you can have as much fun at the kid-friendly spots as they do. Feast your eyes on my favorite places to go if you’ve got Young Things to entertain – I guarantee they won’t be begging you to take them to a boring oldContinueContinue reading “Fun with kids in Tokyo”
Great stuff to do in Tokyo for FREE!
Tokyo doesn’t have to be expensive. There are super fun free things to do all over the place, if you just know where to look. Shrines and temples dish up quirky specialties and entertaining festivals, parks put on seasonal flower extravaganzas (year-round, not just in cherry blossom season!) and wandering through the right stores isContinueContinue reading “Great stuff to do in Tokyo for FREE!”
Hi, I’m Jonelle Patrick
So glad our paths have crossed! I’m the author of five mysteries set in Japan. In addition to The Last Tea Bowl Thief and the Only In Tokyo mystery series, I produce the monthly newsletter Japanagram and blog at Only In Japan. I also teach at writing workshops, appear as a panelist at Thrillerfest, and was the keynote speaker at the ArrowContinueContinue reading “Hi, I’m Jonelle Patrick”